Explore the Grand Canyon of Provence! The Route des Crêtes des Gorges du Verdon is a 24 km panoramic itinerary winding its way up the emblematic limestone cliffs of the Verdon. You’ll discover breathtaking panoramas on this picturesque route, one of the most beautiful in Provence!
Here are some useful tips for planning your visit to the Route des Crêtes from the Gorges du Verdon to La Palud sur Verdon.
This guide is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Is the Route des Crêtes in the Gorges du Verdon worth the effort?
Absolutely! This 24 km panoramic route from La Palud-sur-Verdon takes you on a tour of the crests of the “Grand Canyon of Provence”. The 14 lookouts line a spectacular road (the D23) offering breathtaking views of the Verdon cliffs, some at almost 700m altitude. Along the way, you’ll overlook the Verdon (river), discover impressive viewpoints and observe the flora and fauna that inhabit this enchanting setting.
The journey is best made by car or motorcycle, but for the more intrepid or those looking to slow down the pace, cycling (with or without assistance) is an excellent option!
WHERE TO STAY IN Nice
Our favorites: neighborhoods and hotels
On the waterfront, with sea view:
Anantara Hotel – See prices, photos and availability
In the new town, close to the sea:
Hotel Apollinaire, elegant and bright – See prices, photos and availability
In the old town, with all the charm:
AparthotelAMMI Vieux Nice very practical and pleasant – see prices, photos and availability
What you can see
The Route des Crêtes has 14 lookouts along its 24 km length, each offering a unique perspective on the Gorges du Verdon. In this article, we’ll only detail some of the most remarkable, but here’s the complete list:
- Trescaïre lookouts (top and bottom),
- La Carelle lookout,
- Escalès lookout,
- Dent d’Aire lookout,
- La Glacière lookout,
- Belvederes at Guègues,
- Belvedere at Maugué,
- Belvedere at Pas de Baou,
- Belvédère du Tilleul,
- Imbut lookout,
- Gorge de Guègues lookout,
- Belvedere of Bau Beni,
- Pont de Galetas lookout,
- and Belvédère by Gaston Armanet.
OUR TPS FOR RENTING YOUR CAR IN Provence
- Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars – one of the best rated sites.
- Choose a car that is powerful enough (the roads are steep) but compact (some passages are narrow).
- Think of thecomplete insurance (some roads are tortuous and narrow).
- There is a lot of demand, book it early.
The Verdon River meanders along the cliffs
All along the Route des Crêtes, you’ll see the turquoise ribbon of the Verdon winding its way through the canyon. We found it fascinating to see how the river made its way through this geological fault formed millions of years ago. If you take the time to stop and observe, you may spot kayakers or water hikers enjoying this natural jewel from below.
Are you tempted by an adventure in the Gorges du Verdon? Book your activity!
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Les Belvédères de Trescaïre: viewpoint over the entrance to the gorge
The Belvederes of Trescaïre are among the first stops on the Route des Crêtes. We enjoyed stopping here as they offer a spectacular view of the entrance to the gorge, the famous “Samson Corridor”. From up there, you’ll see 3 imposing rocks that have given their name to the site, “Trescaïre” meaning “3 directions” in Occitan. Looking north, the hilltop village of Rougon comes into view, adding a picturesque touch to the panorama. It’s also an ideal starting point for understanding the genesis of the canyon, patiently carved out by the river over thousands of years.
The majestic Carelle lookout
The Belvédère de la Carelle is one of our favorites on the Route des Crêtes! Its platform, protruding into the void, literally plunges you into the canyon. The place takes its name from the pulleys once used by the “Verdoniens” to climb down the cliffside to harvest juniper and box roots. We found the story astonishing: these roots were used to make the very first pétanque balls! Today, this belvedere is best known for its breathtaking views. On an autumn morning, you might even see a sea of clouds covering the canyon. If you look up, you might see griffon vultures soaring overhead. If you look down, you might catch a glimpse of climbers on the mythical Escalès walls, one of the world’s most famous climbing areas!
HAVE FUN WITH THESE activities
- Great kayak trips in:
Saint-Tropez to the Ramatuelle reserve
Cassis to the calanques - Helicopter flight from Cannes
- Shuttle service along the coast between Nice and Saint-Tropez
- Bike tours: eBike in Nice – Mountain biking in the Esterel massif
Le Belvédère de la Dent d’Aire: the most panoramic of all
If there’s one viewpoint not to be missed, it’s the Dent d’Aire! The 360° view of the surrounding landscape was breathtaking: the Escalès cliff, Robion, Mourre de Chanier and Mont Chiran with its astronomical observatory. At over 700m above the Verdon, vertigo is guaranteed! This viewpoint is also a prime spot for vulture watching. Did you know that the Gorges du Verdon is home to all 4 species found in France? Griffon vultures, black vultures, Egyptian vultures and even bearded vultures. We loved watching their majestic flight, with sometimes nearly 3m wingspan spread over our heads. A rare and spectacular moment.
Le Belvédère des Glacières
We learned that the Belvédère des Glacières has an intriguing name, which is explained by the fact that in the past, natural ice was stored for domestic use in holes in the rock (before the advent of electricity). Today, from this vantage point, you’ll discover an open landscape of grassy plateau and canyon. You’ll also see the remains of a farm (Ferme de Guègues) and its former orchard. Below, the Artuby River flows into the Verdon, forming the famous Mescla, Provençal for “mixture”. Scan the left bank and you’ll also see the 182m-high Pont de l’Artuby, famous for its spectacular bungee jumps.
Are you tempted by an adventure in the Gorges du Verdon? Book your activity!
Vegetation typical of Provence
Beyond the cliffs and canyons, the Route des Crêtes is also an immersion in the typical vegetation of Provence. We love the scent of thyme, rosemary and wild lavender lining the paths. Depending on the season, the landscape takes on different hues: soft green in spring, golden flashes in summer, softer shades in autumn. This Mediterranean flora thrives on generous sunshine and steep terrain. Take the time to walk around the lookouts to fully appreciate it. It also attracts a variety of fauna: bees, butterflies, and sometimes even discreet chamois, which you can spot on the heights. A real reminder that the Verdon is not just a canyon, but also a showcase for biodiversity!
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Route des Crêtes des Gorges du Verdon: how to get there
Where is the Route des Crêtes?
- The Route des Crêtes (D23) forms a 24 km loop starting from the village of La Palud-sur-Verdon, in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence region between Nice and Aix-en-Provence, a few kilometers from Draguignan.
- The start of the route is about 800m outside the village, in the direction of Rougon.
- La Palud is easily accessible by car, but expect a few winding mountain roads: they’re a good precursor to the grandiose scenery that awaits you.
OUR TPS FOR RENTING YOUR CAR IN Provence
- Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars – one of the best rated sites.
- Choose a car that is powerful enough (the roads are steep) but compact (some passages are narrow).
- Think of thecomplete insurance (some roads are tortuous and narrow).
- There is a lot of demand, book it early.
Visiting the Route des Crêtes: useful tips
Schedules and rates
Access to the road is free of charge.
The route is open all year round, but closes in the middle (from the Pas de Baou lookout to the Chalet de la Maline) from March 31 to November 24.The rest remains accessible all year round (belvedere de la Trescaïre, la Carelle, la Dent d’Aïre, Chalet de la Maline etc….). For further information, click here.
Visiting times and difficulties
The Route des Crêtes can be covered in 40 minutes non-stop, but that would be missing the point of this itinerary! We advise you to allow at least 1h30 if you wish to stop at the lookouts. Some viewpoints are directly accessible, while others require you to walk a few metres over rocky or uneven terrain.
Driving is relatively straightforward: the road is asphalted, narrow in places, but safe. One section is a one-way street (between Jas d’Aire and Chalet de la Maline), making it easier to get around. Keep in mind that this section is closed in winter, from the 4th Friday in November to the 4th Friday in March.
As the road is shared between cars, bikes, pedestrians and motorcycles, stay alert and stop to contemplate the scenery rather than doing so while driving.
Best moment
We advise you to take the route in the morning to take advantage of the soft light on the cliffs and to find seats at the lookouts more easily.
The Route des Crêtes is open from late March to late November (depending on conditions). Outside this period, part of the loop is closed, but some viewpoints remain accessible, such as Trescaïre and Dent d’Aire. Find out more here.
Direction of visit
It is essential to complete the loop clockwise, as indicated by the signs at La Palud. It’s the only way to use the one-way section and access all the lookouts.
Eating out
There are no catering facilities or toilets on the Route des Crêtes, so bring water and a snack before you set off.
We recommend a lunch break in La Palud-sur-Verdon, where you’ll find a number of pleasant restaurants and cafés. If you like picnics, pack a lunch and take advantage of one of the lookouts for an unforgettable break overlooking the canyon.
