Planning a trip to the French Riviera? Follow in the footsteps of Emily-in-Paris through the steep streets of Villefranche-sur-Mer and visit the Citadelle Saint-Elme!
This remarkable military structure was built in the 16th century by the Duke of Savoy. With its imposing bastions and well-preserved fortifications, the citadel dominates the town and offers a breathtaking view of the Bay of Villefranche and the Mediterranean. Today it houses the town hall and a cultural center with 3 museums, temporary exhibitions and cultural events.
In this article, you’ll find some useful tips to help you prepare for your visit and have a wonderful time!
This guide is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Why visit Villefranche’s Citadelle Saint-Elme?
Is the citadel worth it? Our opinion:
Yes, absolutely, the Citadelle Saint-Elme is well worth a visit. There are several reasons for this:
- Its military architecture dates back to the 16th century: the citadel is one of the earliest examples of bastioned fortification in Europe.
- Its cultural wealth: its museums, courtyards, chapel, gardens and open-air theater are all places where art in all its forms is on display.
- Its spectacular view of the Villefranche harbor is recognized as one of the most beautiful in the world.
This is one of Villefranche’s must-see places. Villefranche-sur-Mer is one of our 10 favorite villages around Nice, a particularly popular Mediterranean destination.
Why is the Citadelle of Villefranche-sur-Mer famous?
The citadel is famous for being part of a larger military architectural complex that includes the Fort du Mont Alban in Nice, the Tour Saint-Hospice in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and the Beaulieu-sur-Mer battery. This was a defensive complex protecting the royal port of La Darse (today’s Villefranche), then a military port for the States of Savoy.
It is also renowned for its exhibition spaces and museums. Dedicated to the artists Antonio Volti, Christine Boumeester and Henri Goetz, it also features the names of Picasso, Picabia and Miro. We loved its open-air theater. It hosts numerous shows and concerts, and in summer is transformed into a cinema overlooking the sea. The citadel is also a film location. James Bond freed Kim Basinger at the foot of his walls in Never Again .
- Are you tempted by an organized Segway tour from Nice with a guided visit of the citadel? See prices, photos and availability.
- If you prefer electric bikes, a panoramic tour takes you from Nice to Fort Mont-Alban, via the citadel. See prices, photos and availability.
Our favorite moments
We visited the citadel on a sunny afternoon. The light was magnificent, typical of the Côte d’Azur.
- We loved getting lost in the citadel’s colorful passageways and courtyards, all on different levels extended by garden terraces.
- The panoramic view over the bay of Villefranche from the top of the walls is breathtaking. It sweeps across the site from Cap-Ferrat in the east to Mont-Boron in the west.
- The Théâtre de Verdure is a pure marvel, inviting you to come back and enjoy a show between sky and sea.
WHERE TO STAY IN Beaulieu-sur-Mer
Option 1: Waterfront
Enjoy the charm of the old town and all its restaurants.
We recommend..:
- Hotel La Réserve de Beaulieu – prices, pictures and availability
- Hotel Royal Riviera – prices, pictures and availability
Option 2: Downtown
The town is not far from the seaside, but the views won’t be the same. We recommend..:
- Hotel Carlton – prices, pictures and availability
- Hotel Select – see prices, pictures and availability
- Havre Bleu Hotel – prices, pictures and availability
Option 3: Villefranches or Cap-Ferrat
Right next to Beaulieu, around Cap Ferrat, you can also enjoy lively Villefranches, or the peace and quiet on the cape.
We recommend..:
- Hotel Welcome in Villefranches – prices, pictures and availability
- Hotel du Cap Ferrat – prices, pictures and availability
History in brief
- In 1543, Barbarossa’s 110 galleys landed at Villefranche. The invader is fierce. It burns and destroys everything in its path. Less than 10 years later, on the orders ofEmmanuel-Philibert of Savoy, construction began on a bastioned fortification designed to protect the town from assaults from the sea. The plans are by Milanese engineer Gian Maria Olgiatti, Charles V’s principal architect.
- In 1860, Savoie became part of France, and the citadel was used as military quarters by the 24th Battalion of Alpine Chasseurs. It wasn’t until 1965 that the Villefranche town council decided to become the owner. In the same year, the fortress was listed as a Monument Historique. Find out more here.
- Restoration began in 1979, and in 1981 the Town Hall moved in, along with a cultural center (museums, auditorium, open-air theater). Restoration work continues to this day. At the time of our visit, the museums were closed for renovation. We were therefore unable to visit them. They are scheduled to open in 2025.
Access: Citadelle, Villefranche-sur-Mer
Where is the citadel?
The citadel is located on Place Emmanuel Philibert in Villefranche-sur-Mer (06230).
- It’s located on the seafront, at the southern tip of Villefranche’s old town, between the town center and the Darse harbor.
- It is close to the Stade Antoine Bonifaci.
OUR TPS FOR RENTING YOUR CAR IN Provence
- Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars – one of the best rated sites.
- Choose a car that is powerful enough (the roads are steep) but compact (some passages are narrow).
- Think of thecomplete insurance (some roads are tortuous and narrow).
- There is a lot of demand, book it early.
How to get there?
To reach the citadel, you have several options:
- By car: the site is well signposted and easy to get to, but traffic can be heavy (especially in summer).
- On foot: 5 to 7 minutes from Église Saint-Michel in the center of Villefranche.
- By bus: the Mairie-Villefranche-sur-Mer bus stop (line 80) is the nearest stop, a 1-minute walk away.
- By train: from Villefranche-sur-Mer SNCF station, an 11-minute walk.
Parking
You can park your car at the foot of the citadel ramparts. Paid parking spaces have been created.
We had left our car in the Wilson parking lot, on the seafront between the old town and the access road to the citadel. From here, a staircase leads up to the monument entrance. The first 1/2 hour is free. Find out more here.
PLAN YOUR STAY IN Beaulieu-sur-Mer
- Things to do in Beaulieu-sur-Mer
- Where to stay in Beaulieu-sur-Mer: Best hotels
- Best restaurants
- Beaulieu-sur-Mer’s most beautiful beaches (coming soon)
- Villa Kerylos
- Villa Eprhussi
- Things to do in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Useful tips: duration, schedules, eating…
Best time to visit
The citadel can be visited at any time of day. However, in fine weather, visiting in the morning allows you to avoid the heat and enjoy a little peace and quiet.
You can also enjoy late-night concerts and shows at the Théâtre de Verdure.
Length of visit and main difficulties
Allow 1-2 hours to visit the site, especially if you want to enjoy the current exhibitions and gardens.
There are a few staircases in the exterior of the citadel, and the layout of the floor makes it difficult for people with reduced mobility to get around.
The Citadelle’s museums offer easy access for a range of special needs (visual, hearing, motor). To find out which tour adaptations are available, click here.
Advice on how to visit
The citadel’s museums were being restored at the time of our visit. We only had access to the outside. We first toured the citadel’s courtyards (cour d’honneur, cour de la citerne, cour du ricin) before climbing the ramparts to the north-east of the building. We then moved on to the terrace adjacent to the courtyard of the Hôtel de Ville and visited the Chapelle Saint-Elme, which was hosting an exhibition. We ended our visit with a tour of the gardens and a descent to the Théâtre de Verdure.
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Visiting with children
There are plenty of activities for children to enjoy at the Villefranche-sur-Mer Citadel, including rallies and workshops.
A discovery booklet is also available free of charge from the museum store.
However, these activities are suspended while the museums are being restored. For more information, click here.
Schedules and rates
The citadel is open:
- Summer: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
- Winter: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Access is free of charge.
- Why not take advantage of the multi-stop bus service from Nice? It passes through the Citadelle of Villefranche-sur-Mer. See prices, photos and availability.
Guided tours
Individual guided tours of the old town and citadel are available from April to October, upon reservation. Conditions here.
Single rate per person: €5
Free for children under 12.
Nearby restaurants
If you’re visiting in fine weather, be sure to try the flavors of Feracci’s home-made ice creams, at the foot of the citadel, just above the Wilson parking lot. A refreshing delight!
Our article on where to eat in Beaulieu-sur-Mer will soon be available. You can already discover our best addresses in Nice.
Start of the tour: spaces dedicated to culture
Once over the bridge leading to the entrance gate, a high, shaded porch opens onto the courtyard of honor. From here, a maze of courtyards, ramps and warmly-colored passageways house the citadel’s museums.
The maze of courses
The main courtyard is relatively large (200m2). On the right, we were intrigued by the openwork door of the Bastion de la Turbie. Today it’s the Volti Museum. A ramp leads to the museum store and beyond to the ramparts.
This is also the entrance to the cistern courtyard (78m2). At the time of our visit, a work by visual artist Jeanne Susplugas, La maison malade, was on display as part of the exhibition Tout semblait pourtant si calme, dedicated to her at the time.
The cistern courtyard communicates with the castor-oil courtyard (95m2 long). This is where you’ll find L’homme de pierre by French artist and actor Max Cartier.
Finally, the last courtyard is the largest (250m2). This is the courtyard of the Town Hall. We loved the double arches facing south and the very Mediterranean atmosphere.
The museums
3 museums are grouped together in the Citadelle Saint-Elme. They were closed for restoration at the time of our visit.
The Volti Museum is located at the end of the citadel’s casemates. It features scuptures by French artist Antoniucci Voltigerno. They depict voluptuously curvaceous female bodies in bronze, copper and terracotta.
Nor did we see the Goetz-Boumeester museum, which houses the works of Henry Goetz and Christine Boumeester, as well as some of the great contemporary masters they worked with: Picasso, Picabia, Miro, Hartung…
The citadel also houses the city’s Museum of History and Collections, which we were unable to visit. Finally, the Chapelle Saint-Elme is the ideal venue for temporary exhibitions. This is the former chapel of the citadel. The back wall of the choir features an 18th-century fresco and two niches with sculptures of Saint-Elme and Saint-Michel.
The tour continues: exploring the fortifications
We continued our visit to the fortifications of the Citadelle Saint-Elme. They are impressive both for their size and their strategic defensive layout.
Walls and ramparts
Once we reached the ramparts of this bastioned fortress, we understood why its ingenious star-shaped defensive system had inspired the whole of Catholic Europe. From the Knights of Malta at Valletta to Vauban under Louis XIV.
What’s more, the Villefranche-sur-Mer Citadel is built on a rocky eminence. The steep, sloping site further reinforces the sense of impenetrability of its gigantic walls. They give the impression of touching the sky. We were very intimidated by them.
We really enjoyed the view of Villefranche’s old town from the battlements. It is a perfect illustration of defensive strategy, and in particular of the observation possible from such a height.
The walkway
In addition to the outer Diagon Alley, which runs along the seafront below the citadel, there’s another that crosses it from end to end. It begins at the entrance bridge and passes over the drawbridge and entrance porch.
It continues on the other side of the main courtyard and passes under a second porch, following a ramp that today runs alongside the courtyard of the Hôtel de Ville.
We took it under the double arches of the courtyard of the Hôtel de Ville, then under a second porch to the terrace of the citadel’s southern bastion.
End of the tour: gardens and panoramas
To round off our visit, we strolled through the citadel gardens. They overlook the Mediterranean Sea on 3 levels and join the green theater.
Gardens by the sea
The first green space is the terrace of the Saint-Elme chapel. The yellow and green tiled roof of a turret is typical of the region. The sea is visible through its openings. The presence of the bust of Jean Moulin is a tribute to the creation of the Comité National de la Résistance.
Returning to the main courtyard, you reach the rose garden, terraced on the façade side. A special area of the Citadel gardens, it is home to a mix of old roses, bushes, stems and climbers. The plants were still underdeveloped at the time of our visit, but promised a beautiful symphony of colors and fragrances.
Finally, there’s the échauguette garden, on the sea side. Sixteenth-century architecture blends harmoniously with nature. A path leads down from the sea to the open-air theater below.
Le théâtre de verdure
The green theater of the Citadelle Saint-Elme is a unique place overlooking the sea and the Darse harbor. This is one of our favorite moments of the visit. We dream of coming here to see a film or listen to a concert.
The theater hosts various film and music festivals during the summer months. Discover the citadelle’s program of events here.
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Frequently asked questions
Who was Antonio Volti?
Antonio Volti (real name Antoniucci Voltigerno) was a 20th-century French sculptor and draughtsman of Italian origin. Her work is dedicated to the female body through a variety of materials, notably bronze and copper. The Volti Foundation-Museum was created during his lifetime. He donated some of his works (sculpture and drawings) to the commune of Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Who were Christine Boumeester and Henri Goetz?
Christine Boumeester is a Dutch artist who became a French citizen. She moved to France in the 1920s. She is associated with the Surrealist movement and is known for her abstract paintings.
Her husband, Henri Goetz, is a naturalized American painter. He was also associated with the Surrealist movement and took part in the French Resistance during the Second World War.
Both made significant contributions to the French art scene and were active in the artistic and intellectual circles of their day.
PLAN YOUR TRIP TO THE Côte d’Azur
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