If you’re planning an escape to Nice on the Côte d’Azur, we urge you to take a stroll along the Cours Saleya. This historic site in the heart of the old town is very popular with visitors. We enjoyed strolling around in the quiet of the morning, watching it come alive with stalls of flowers, fruit and vegetables. You can also enjoy sunny terraces and cafés.
In this article, discover our photos and tips for making the most of your visit to the Cours Saleya in Nice.
This guide is completely independent, based on our experiences. We visited the region anonymously, making our own choices and paying our bills in full.
Why visit Nice’s Cours Saleya?
Is the Cours Saleya worth it? Our opinion:
Do you know Nice’s Cours Saleya? This charming pedestrian mall in the old town is well worth a visit! Its emblematic flower market, vibrant atmosphere and colorful stalls of local produce attract locals and tourists alike. We discovered the little houses along the river called Ponchettes, true witnesses to the history of holidaying in the Côte d’Azur capital. In our opinion, visiting the Cours Saleya and its markets is one of the best things to do in Nice.
Why is the Cours Saleya so famous?
The Cours Saleya owes its fame first and foremost to its flower market, ranked among the 100 most famous and picturesque markets in France. Did you know that it was also one of the most festive places in Nice’s social life? Carnival floats paraded here until the end of the 19th century. At the heart of aUNESCO World Heritage site, the Cours Saleya is a heritage site with a rich architectural legacy.
Our favorite moments
We particularly enjoyed observing the architectural details such as the arches and moldings on the Italian-influenced buildings along the courtyard. You’ll see the Chapelle de la Miséricorde and the Palais des Ducs de Savoie, now the Préfecture de Nice. Our favorite part of the day is undoubtedly the walk at sunrise, when the market opens in the morning. Watching this neighborhood come to life, with shopkeepers and artisans gradually setting up shop, really fascinated us.
History in brief
The Cours Saleya is a landmark in the Côte d’Azur capital, steeped in history:
- 1861: installation of the 1st flower, fruit and vegetable market, which became the commercial heart of the town.
- 2nd half of the 19th century: former festive hub of social life and parade site for Nice Carnival floats
- 2021: UNESCO classification of the city of Nice, including its historic center and the Cours Saleya.
Access: Cours Saleya, Nice
Where is the Cours Saleya?
Cours Saleya is located in the heart of Old Nice, less than 10 minutes’ walk from Sainte-Réparate Cathedral. This pedestrian esplanade stretches from the base of the Colline du Château to the area around the Opera House, parallel to the Promenade des Anglais and the Quai des États-Unis.
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How to get there?
The course is within easy walking distance of the city center. There are also several public transport options to get you to the site:
- By streetcar: line 1, stop at Cathédrale – Vieille Ville
- By bus: routes 57 and 5 (Massena-Guitry stop) or routes 08 and 12 (Cathédrale / Vieille Ville stop)
- By bike: hire from Lime or Pony (see here). Cycle paths are available between the Promenade des Anglais and the Quai des États-Unis. Bicycles are permitted on the course.
- Hop On Hop Off tourist bus: stop at Quai des États-Unis – reserve your ticket
- More info on the city’s official website here
Parking
There are 2 options for parking near the Cours Saleya:
- Interparking Sulzer parking lot: 5 minutes’ walk from the Musée de la Photographie, with the option of reserving a space online.
- Parking Indigo Nice Saleya: pay parking lot, less than 5 minutes’ walk from the Nice Opera.
Note that the Cours Saleya is a pedestrian thoroughfare, accessible only by car to local residents and businesses. The lane for other vehicles is along the Quai des États-Unis and the Promenade des Anglais.
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Useful tips: duration, schedules, eating…
Best time to visit
We recommend that you visit in the mornings and on weekdays. If you don’t like crowds, the best time to visit the course is in winter. We found the walk more peaceful. It’s also easier to park nearby and navigate pedestrian zones. Otherwise, summer and spring are pleasant but busy times.
Recommended length of visit and main difficulties
Allow 1 to 2 hours to take full advantage of the Cours Saleya atmosphere. Enjoy local produce and admire the flowers at the market. We didn’t notice any particular difficulties, and the market seemed accessible to us, with a smooth paved floor. Please note that it’s more difficult to get around at peak times.
Public toilets are also available on Place Charles Félix, parallel to the course.
Advice on how to visit
There’s no set direction, but we find it interesting to follow the route from west to east, from the opera house to the foot of the hill. You can gradually discover the bustle of the market and finish your stroll with a panoramic view of the Cours Saleya. Don’t forget to stop off at the Musée Charles Nègre and admire the Italianate-style buildings along the way!
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Visiting with children
The Cours Saleya tour is child-friendly. They’ll be able to see the colorful houses and buildings along the courtyard, smell the beautiful flowers in the market and observe the artists’ canvases. Crowds permitting, you’ll even have the chance to ride your bike or scooter! A stroll up to Nice’s Chateau Hill is an excellent way to end your visit. And why not take a picnic?
Schedules and rates
Schedules:
- Flower market, food market, local crafts market: Tuesday to Sunday, 6:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
- Flea market: every Monday from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
- Night craft market: mid-May to mid-September
Access to the Cours Saleya is free. Only purchases at the market and restaurant are subject to a charge.
Guided tours
As the Cours Saleya is located in the heart of Nice, there are many ways to include it in an organized or audioguided tour. Here is our selection:
- Guided walking tour of Nice’s treasures – find out more
- Segway tour of Nice’s sights – reserve your place
- Guided tour of Old Nice and the Colline du Château – see program
- Nice Hop-On Hop-Off Bus – book your ticket
- Nice online audioguide available here
Catering
Strolling along the Cours Saleya, we spotted the sunny terrace of Restaurant La Storia. Its gourmet menu features specialties from Nice. In fact, it was at this table that we tasted pissaladière and daube niçoise for the 1st time. A delight! Nearby, we can also recommend:
- Restaurant Le Maquis: an unusual setting and delicious Corsican products
- Restaurant Le Panier: gourmet bistro cuisine
- Indien” coffees: passionate, eco-responsible roasters
- Restaurant Babel Babel (parallel to Cours Saleya): Mediterranean cuisine and natural wine, which we can’t wait to try (the restaurant opened after our visit).
For more ideas, see our selection of the best restaurants in Nice here.
The colorful Cours Saleya market
The Cours Saleya flower market is a veritable institution. We enjoyed the diversity of flowers on offer, from orchids to ferns and cacti. The colorful stalls with their bouquets of sunflowers, lilies and roses are a real eye-catcher. You’ll also discover local plants typical of the Mediterranean region.
Every morning from Tuesday to Sunday, the Cours Saleya food market also comes to life. We enjoyed wandering between the stalls of fresh fruit and vegetables, discovering local specialities and chatting with local producers. The scents of ripe fruit and aromatic herbs create a particularly lively atmosphere.
We didn’t visit the course on Monday, but on that day it was time for the flea market! Take a moment to browse through antiques, vintage objects and curiosities of all kinds. The dealers’ expertise and anecdotes add a cultural dimension to the visit.
In summer, the Cours Saleya unveils its night-time craft market. Local artisans display their creations under the evening lights. You’ll appreciate the friendly atmosphere.
A gourmet stopover in the vibrant heart of Old Nice
The Cours Saleya is not just a market, it’s also a Mecca for Nice gastronomy. We were seduced by the diversity of stalls offering local specialities. Here you can discover the authentic flavors of the region, from Nice olives to traditional socca.
The delicatessens and traditional restaurants lining the course also offer a fine selection of local Mediterranean produce. It was at La Storia restaurant on the Cours that we first tasted pissaladière and daube niçoise.
Italian-influenced architecture, a journey into the past
Born in the 16th century, the Italian Baroque style has had a profound influence on the architecture of Nice and its historic Cours Saleya. Narrow streets and imposing buildings adorned with frescoes, colors and gilding perpetuate this part of Nice’s identity. The Italian influence in the city’s architecture bears witness to its rich history, which has been recognized by UNESCO since 2021.
Don’t forget to look up to admire the remarkable architectural gems housed in the courtyard, such as the Palace of the Dukes of Savoy, now the Prefecture of Nice. We were also seduced by the façade and exterior of the Chapelle de la Miséricorde, with its baroque architecture and shimmering colors.
Last but not least, the Palais Caïs Pierlas on the Place Charles Félix also catches the eye with its characteristic Old Nice style. Built in the 17th century by the Ribotti family from the commune of Pierlas, it wasn’t until after the French Revolution that decorations and reliefs were added to the façade. Did you know that the famous painter Henri Matisse stayed here from 1921 to 1938?
Art break on the course at the Musée de la Photographie
Let’s head for the Musée Charles Nègre! This photography exhibition space occupies a privileged position in the heart of Vieux Nice. The industrial character of the architecture, a remnant of an old electrical substation from the 1930s, really appealed to us. Like us, you’ll appreciate the contrast between this building and the colorful facades of the neighborhood. The museum also boasts an adjoining gallery dedicated to regional photographic creation, and an open-access documentation center. Take the time to browse through some of our books!
Temporary collections breathe life into the museum and bring a constant dynamism to this cultural venue. We were delighted by the exhibition dedicated to Lionel Kazan, a key fashion photographer of the 1950s and 1960s. Her photos have graced the pages of top magazines such as Marie Claire, Elle and Vogue.
Les Ponchettes du Cours Saleya, the origins of the Nice holiday resort
Have you ever heard of Les Ponchettes? These small, single-storey houses represent a remarkable architectural and historical feature. Built in the 18th century after the demolition of the ancient walls of Old Nice, the Ponchettes played a crucial role in transforming the city into a tourist destination. We were struck by their authenticity, preserved in harmony with urban modernization over the centuries. You’ll see them all along the course!
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Frequently asked questions
What attractions are close to Cours Saleya?
You’ll be amazed by the many must-see sites around the Cours Saleya:
- Sainte-Réparate Cathedral in the narrow streets of Vieux-Nice on Place Rossetti
- Nice Opera just before the start of the course
- Colline du Château at the east end
- and after crossing the course, you’ll discover the Promenade des Anglais, the Quai des États-Unis and the beaches of Nice.
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